Birkin vs Kelly: How to Choose the Right Hermès Bag

When it comes to Hermès, two bags dominate the conversation: the Birkin and the Kelly. Both represent the pinnacle of leather craftsmanship, both command waiting lists that stretch for years, and both have become synonymous with quiet, considered luxury. Yet despite sharing the same DNA, these bags serve different purposes and suit different lifestyles.

If you're weighing up which Hermès bag deserves a place in your collection, this guide breaks down everything you need to know, from the practical differences in design and size to what you should consider when shopping the pre-owned  handbag market in the UK.

The Origins Behind Two Legendary Bags

The stories behind the Birkin and Kelly say a great deal about their character.

The Kelly arrived first. Originally designed in the 1930s as the "Sac à dépêches," this structured bag was intended for carrying documents. It gained global recognition in 1956 when Grace Kelly, then Princess of Monaco, was photographed holding hers in front of her body, reportedly to shield her pregnancy from photographers. The image appeared in Life Magazine, and demand for "the Grace Kelly bag" surged. Hermès officially renamed it the Kelly in her honour in 1977.

The Birkin has a more spontaneous origin. In 1984, actress and singer Jane Birkin found herself seated next to Jean-Louis Dumas, then CEO of Hermès, on a flight from Paris to London. When her straw bag's contents spilled across the cabin floor, the two began discussing what an ideal everyday bag might look like. Birkin wanted something roomy, practical, and still refined. Dumas sketched ideas on the back of an airsickness bag during the flight, and the Birkin was born.

These origins shape how each bag feels today. The Kelly carries an air of formality and polish; a bag designed for structure and occasion. The Birkin, meanwhile, was built for real life: capacious, accessible, and meant to be used.

Both bags are made entirely by hand, with a single artisan responsible for each piece from start to finish. Depending on the leather and construction, this process takes between 18 and 48 hours. That level of craftsmanship underpins everything that makes these bags so sought after.

Design Differences at a Glance

At first glance, the Birkin and Kelly share a similar silhouette, both feature a flap closure, turn-lock fastening, and the signature Hermès padlock. Look closer, however, and the differences become clear.

Shape and structure: The Kelly has an angular, trapezoidal silhouette with crisp lines and a ruler-straight top edge. The Birkin's shape is softer, with gently curved edges and a more relaxed stance. When placed side by side, the Kelly appears more architectural while the Birkin feels approachable.

Handles: This is often the first difference people notice. The Kelly has a single top handle and comes with a detachable shoulder strap, allowing you to wear it multiple ways. The Birkin has two top handles and no strap, and it's designed to be carried by hand or in the crook of your arm.

Closure: The Kelly's flap must remain closed during use to avoid straining the single handle. This means fastening and unfastening the turn-lock each time you need to access your belongings. The Birkin, by contrast, can be worn open with the flap tucked inside, making it far easier to reach in and grab what you need throughout the day.

Carrying options: The Kelly offers three ways to carry: by the top handle, over the forearm, or across the body using the shoulder strap. The Birkin is limited to hand or arm carry only.

Understanding Sizes – Birkin and Kelly Compared

Both bags come in multiple sizes, and choosing the right one depends on what you carry daily and how you plan to use the bag.

Birkin sizes: The Birkin is produced in four standard sizes, 25cm, 30cm, 35cm, and 40cm. The 35cm was the original size designed for Jane Birkin herself, though in recent years the 25 and 30 have become the most sought-after. The 40cm suits travel or those who carry substantial items like laptops.

Kelly sizes: The Kelly offers more variety, ranging from the Mini Kelly at 20cm up to 25cm, 28cm, 32cm, 35cm, and 40cm. There's also a Kelly 50 designed specifically for travel. The 28cm is often considered the most balanced size – large enough for daily essentials without overwhelming the frame.

Here's how the most popular sizes compare:

For first-time buyers in the UK pre-owned handbag market, the Birkin 30 and Kelly 28 remain the most popular choices. Both offer enough capacity for daily use without feeling oversized, and both tend to hold their value well.

Sellier vs Retourne – The Construction That Changes Everything

Beyond size, there's another decision that significantly affects how your bag looks and feels: the construction style. This applies primarily to the Kelly, though it's worth understanding for both bags.

Sellier (meaning "saddler" in French) refers to bags with exterior stitching. The seams are visible on the outside, and the edges are finished with a resin coating. This creates sharp, clean lines and a rigid, boxy structure. The Sellier Kelly has a more formal appearance and holds its shape firmly over time.

Retourne (meaning "reversed") describes bags that are stitched and then turned inside out, hiding the seams within the bag. This creates softer edges, rounded corners, and a more relaxed silhouette. Retourne bags tend to have a casual, lived-in quality.

The Kelly is available in both Sellier and Retourne constructions. The Birkin, however, is almost exclusively Retourne; Sellier Birkins exist but are extremely rare and highly collectible.

What does this mean in practice? Sellier bags typically use stiffer leathers like Epsom or Box Calf to maintain their structured shape. Retourne bags often feature suppler leathers like Togo or Clemence, which allow for the softer finish.

When shopping pre-owned, pay attention to how each construction ages. Sellier bags maintain their crisp lines but can show wear at the corners more readily. Retourne bags may develop a gentle slouch over time, particularly if not stored properly.

Leather Types and What They Mean for Your Bag

Hermès offers an extensive library of leathers, and your choice affects everything from the bag's appearance to its durability and care requirements.

Togo is arguably the most popular leather for both Birkin and Kelly bags. Made from calfskin, it features a soft, pebbled grain that resists scratches and water while remaining lightweight. Togo holds its shape well without being rigid, and develops a gentle sheen with use. It works beautifully for both bags and suits Retourne construction.

Clemence comes from bull calf and shares Togo's pebbled texture, though with a slightly larger, flatter grain. It's heavier than Togo and has a more relaxed drape, which can result in a slouchier appearance over time. Clemence is extremely durable and ages gracefully, making it a solid choice for everyday bags.

Epsom is an embossed leather with a distinctive cross-hatch pattern. Unlike Togo and Clemence, the grain is pressed into the leather rather than natural. Epsom is rigid, lightweight, and highly resistant to scratches and water. It displays colour vibrantly and holds structure well, making it the go-to choice for Sellier Kelly bags.

Box Calf is one of the oldest leathers in the Hermès repertoire, dating back to the 1890s. This smooth, polished calfskin develops a rich patina over time but shows scratches more readily than grained leathers. You'll often find Box Calf on vintage Kelly bags, where it contributes to that classic, refined appearance.

Swift is a smooth, soft leather introduced in 2006. It has a luxurious hand feel but is more delicate than textured options, showing scratches and marks more easily. Swift works well for smaller bags and those reserved for occasional use.

When buying pre-owned, examine the leather carefully. Grained leathers like Togo and Epsom tend to show less wear than smooth finishes. Check corners, handles, and areas of frequent contact for signs of use.

Everyday Use – Which Bag Suits Your Lifestyle?

Beyond aesthetics, the Birkin and Kelly offer genuinely different experiences in daily use.

The Birkin's strengths lie in accessibility and capacity. Because you can wear it open with the flap tucked inside, reaching for your phone, wallet, or keys takes no effort. The two handles distribute weight evenly, and the bag's width allows for more items without straining the structure. If you're constantly on the move,  commuting, running errands, managing a busy schedule,  the Birkin's tote-style functionality makes life easier.

The downside? Without a shoulder strap, you'll always have one hand occupied or need to balance the bag in the crook of your arm. For parents, travellers, or anyone who needs hands-free carrying, this can be limiting.

The Kelly's strengths centre on versatility in how you carry it. The detachable shoulder strap means you can switch between hand-carry for formal moments and crossbody for practical ones. The structured closure keeps contents secure which is useful if you're navigating crowded spaces or simply prefer knowing everything stays in place.

The trade-off is that Kelly's closure system requires fastening and unfastening every time you need something. Many owners find this cumbersome after a while, particularly with the smaller sizes where the sangles (straps) are proportionally shorter and fiddlier.

Real-world considerations worth noting:

• The Kelly worn crossbody sits more comfortably in Retourne construction; Sellier's rigid edges can feel stiff against the body

• Birkin handles benefit from protection; many owners wrap them with Hermès twillies (silk scarves) to prevent wear from hand oils

• The Birkin tends to attract more public attention due to its recognisable silhouette

• For work settings, a Birkin 30 or 35 accommodates tablets and documents; a Kelly 28 or 32 offers a polished professional look

Investment Value and the UK Pre-Owned Market

Both the Birkin and Kelly have earned reputations as "better than gold" investments, though the market has shifted in recent years.

During the pandemic years, demand for both bags surged dramatically. According to Bernstein Research, the average resale premium for Birkin and Kelly bags peaked at around 2.2 times retail value in 2022. By late 2025, that figure had moderated to approximately 1.4 times retail; still a substantial premium, but a more realistic reflection of current market conditions.

Several factors influence pre-owned value:

Size matters. Smaller sizes,  particularly the Birkin 25, Kelly 25, and Mini Kelly 20,  often command higher prices relative to their retail cost. This reflects both the current trend toward compact bags and their relative scarcity.

Colour affects demand. Neutral shades like Black, Etoupe (a grey-brown), and Gold remain the most stable performers. They appeal to the widest audience and pair with nearly any wardrobe. Seasonal or discontinued colours can either command premiums (for collectors seeking rarities) or trade at discounts (if demand is limited).

Leather and condition are crucial. Bags in durable leathers like Togo and Epsom typically show less wear and retain value better than delicate finishes. Condition grading – examining corners, handles, hardware, and interior, directly impacts price.

Construction style plays a role. Kelly Sellier bags have gained appreciation in the resale market, partly due to their structured appearance and formal versatility.

For UK buyers, the pre-owned designer handbag market offers distinct advantages. You gain access to specific colour and leather combinations that might never appear in a boutique offer. There's no waitlist, no purchase history requirement, and older pieces often trade below current retail prices. It's also a practical way to try a particular size or style before committing further.

How to Choose Your First Hermès Bag

If you're deciding between a Birkin and a Kelly for your first purchase, start with a few honest questions about how you live.

Do you need hands-free carrying? If yes, the Kelly's shoulder strap offers flexibility the Birkin cannot match.

How much do you typically carry? The Birkin's wider base accommodates more. If you travel light, either bag works; if you carry a full day's essentials, the Birkin provides easier access.

Is your style more casual or formal? The Birkin leans toward relaxed refinement; it pairs naturally with jeans and a blazer. The Kelly, particularly in Sellier, reads more polished and works well in professional or dressy contexts.

Will this be a daily bag or reserved for occasions? For heavy rotation, the Birkin's open-top practicality wins. For selective use, the Kelly's structured beauty makes each outing feel considered.

For first-time buyers, most specialists recommend the Birkin 30 or Kelly 28 in a neutral colour with Togo or Epsom leather. These sizes suit most frames and lifestyles, hold their value reliably, and serve as a genuine litmus test for whether the style works for you.

Buying pre-owned makes particular sense for a first Hermès bag. You can experience the size and functionality without the full retail commitment, and if your preferences evolve, pre-owned bags trade actively in the secondary market.

What to Look for When Buying Pre-Owned Birkin or Kelly

Shopping pre-owned requires attention to detail. Here's what to examine before making a decision.

Condition indicators: Check the corners carefully; this is where wear shows first. Examine handles for darkening from hand oils or cracks in the leather. Look at the hardware for scratches, tarnishing, or loose elements. Inspect the interior for stains, pen marks, or odours.

Original accessories: A complete set;  a clochette (the leather tab holding the keys), padlock, keys, dustbag, box, and ribbon, adds to the bag's value. Missing items don't disqualify a purchase, but they should be reflected in the price.

Date stamps: Hermès uses letter stamps to indicate production year. Understanding these helps verify a bag's age and authenticity. A reputable seller will provide this information transparently.

Authentication markers: Hermès stitching is done by hand using saddle stitch technique, meaning the thread crosses in a specific pattern. Hardware should feel substantial, stamps should be clean and evenly pressed, and materials should match documented specifications for that production year.

Questions to ask any seller:

• What is the bag's production year?

• Are all original accessories included?

• Has the bag been to Hermès for spa treatment or repairs?

• Can you provide detailed photographs of the date stamp, hardware, and any areas of wear?

At KYM, every bag undergoes thorough verification before reaching our collection. We examine construction, materials, hardware, and date stamps to ensure authenticity. Our team is happy to answer questions about any piece and provide detailed condition notes to support your decision.

FAQs

Is the Birkin or Kelly more expensive?

At retail, both bags fall within similar price tiers, with the Birkin typically costing marginally more for equivalent sizes and leathers. Current UK retail prices start around £7,500 for entry-level sizes and can exceed £50,000 for exotic skins. In the pre-owned market, prices vary based on size, colour, leather, condition, and current demand. Neither bag is categorically more expensive than the other – specific combinations drive pricing.

Which bag is harder to get from Hermès boutiques?

Both require building a purchase history with Hermès before you'll be offered the opportunity to buy. Generally, Birkins are considered slightly harder to obtain due to lower production numbers relative to demand. Kelly bags, while still scarce, may appear in boutique offers more frequently. Neither is available to walk-in customers without an established relationship.

Can men carry the Kelly bag?

Absolutely. The Kelly's origins as a document bag give it a structured, briefcase-like quality that works well for men. The 32cm and 35cm sizes are particularly popular, often carried by the top handle in professional settings. The clean lines of the Sellier construction suit tailored wardrobes nicely.

How do I store my Birkin or Kelly when not in use?

Stuff the bag lightly with acid-free tissue paper to help maintain its shape; this is especially important for Retourne styles, which can slouch over time. Store upright in the dustbag, away from direct sunlight and humidity. Avoid plastic covers, which can trap moisture. If storing long-term, check periodically and air the bag to prevent mustiness.

Which bag ages better?

This depends largely on leather choice and care. Grained leathers like Togo and Clemence age gracefully, developing character without showing heavy wear. Smooth leathers like Box Calf acquire a rich patina but require more careful handling. In terms of construction, Sellier styles maintain their structure over decades, while Retourne bags may soften and relax. Both can look remarkable at 20 or 30 years old when properly cared for.

Should I buy new or pre-owned for my first Hermès bag?

Pre-owned offers several practical advantages for first-time buyers. You can access the specific size, colour, and leather combination you want rather than accepting whatever a boutique offers. There's no waiting list or spending requirement. Prices for older pieces may fall below current retail, and you can test whether the style suits your life before pursuing boutique purchases. If your preferences change, pre-owned bags remain tradeable in the secondary market.

What's the difference between Sellier and Retourne?

Sellier bags feature exterior stitching and rigid construction, creating sharp edges and a formal appearance. Retourne bags are stitched and then turned inside out, hiding seams and resulting in softer, rounder edges. Kelly bags come in both styles; Birkins are almost exclusively Retourne. Sellier uses stiffer leathers; Retourne uses suppler ones.

Which size should I choose?

Consider your daily carry and frame. For most people, Birkin 30 and Kelly 28 hit the sweet spot;  large enough for essentials (phone, wallet, keys, small cosmetics pouch) without overwhelming. Petite frames often suit the 25cm sizes, while taller individuals or those carrying more may prefer 32cm or 35cm. When in doubt, think about what you currently carry and whether you'd like more or less capacity.

Finding Your Hermès at KYM

Whether you're drawn to the Birkin's relaxed practicality or the Kelly's refined structure, both bags represent a considered investment in craftsmanship and design. The right choice depends entirely on how you live, what you carry, and which aesthetic speaks to you.

At KYM, we specialise in verified pre-owned designer handbags for UK buyers. Our collection includes both Birkin and Kelly styles across sizes, leathers, and colours, each one is authenticated and condition-graded by our team. If you have questions about a specific piece or need guidance on which bag might suit you best, we're here to help.

Browse our current Hermès collection or get in touch with our team for personalised recommendations.